The 1944 MCSA journal has an interesting article about Blinkwater Johnny, who lived in a cave near the lower waterfall in Blinkwater Ravine. During his stay there from around 1921 to 1927, he seemingly furnished the cave with an astonishing number of items, even an iron bedstead. Fast forward 100 years to 2024, it was decided to pay a visit and view the remnants of this interesting character’s former dwelling.
Our MCSA meet happened two days after the lower cable car station on Tafelberg Road caught fire, reportedly caused by lithium batteries from the cable cars’ backup energy sources. It was a beautiful morning with good weather as we started our hike, excited to be on the mountain before the storm that was predicted for the next day. A sea of yellow pincushion proteas formed a continuous guard of honour, welcoming us along Pipe Track. In the distance we could see our goal, Blinkwater Ravine (formerly known as Stinkwater Ravine!), and as always it looked so impossible, impassable. Quite fitting then that the SANParks sign at the start clearly states “Dangerous No Entry”.
We dared to enter and proceeded up the ravine, and after a quick break at the platform we dropped into the watercourse to visit the waterfall. It is a must-see after heavy rain in winter, one of the most beautiful waterfalls on Table Mountain. From there the adventure started, trying to find a safe line up to the cave. A YouTuber who posted a video about his recent visit described the way up as dangerous, keeping a rope on hand for safety. If you manage to find the right line though, it’s quite manageable for experienced scramblers. Our group safely reached the cave to find that, a century after Blinkwater Johnny, someone had again moved in and made the cave their residence!
Blinkwater Yahya (2024) may not have a bed and the other “articles of comfort” that Blinkwater Johnny (1924) did, but it seems that this new occupant is well settled in and has probably been living there for at least a few weeks. (Possible signs of someone’s presence in the cave were observed during an exploratory hike in September 2024). With a decent tent for shelter, a flag to proclaim their affiliation in the international conflict, and everything very neat and clean, there are definitely worse places to live than this. It appeared that the person in question might not be around so we briefly observed from a respectful distance and retreated to the waterfall, then continued our hike.
Blinkwater Ravine is definitely a less-frequented route and we didn’t encounter anyone else hiking (or residing!) there as we continued to the top. Along the way we passed the massive fault line that runs from Platteklip Gorge, cutting through Table Mountain like a massive scar, seemingly creating the imposing Blinkwater Needle. The route has been closed since a major rockfall in 1982, with more incidents and rescue missions occurring through the years, especially a major one in 2015 when five hikers were injured. The scree has mostly settled by now, but hikers should only attempt it in small groups, in the presence of a person who is familiar with the route, while taking utmost care to not dislodge rocks that may injure other members of your group. Near the top, one can still see the remnants of the (climbing aid) chain that was removed when it was closed, a relic of a route that used to be very popular in days gone by. We safely reached the Apostles trail at the top and then proceeded into Echo Valley.
Echo Valley has quite a presence, an almost mystical, sacred feel to it. From there one can gain height along a route about halfway between the Apostles trail and Backwater Gorge. This takes you to a special place next to St Michael’s Peak, with the most beautiful views towards the reservoirs below, as well as Hout Bay, Cape Point and beyond. We then continued our hike to the top, linking up with the route between the upper cable car station and Maclear’s Beacon. With the cable cars still not operational after the recent fire, everyone opted to descend India Venster, concluding the hike 5.5 hours after we started. Thank you to everyone who joined, the good company and new connections formed, a most enjoyable day.
Pictures: Ben Walwyn, Ilana Engelbrecht, Johan Fourie, Ruth Knoblich, Samantha Heystek, Vicci Vierbergen
