(Peak Bagging Edition) – 24 to 26 October, 2024
I have often stopped at the big cairn in Mont Rochelle Nature Reserve which marks the eastern end of the Wemmershoek Traverse, and tried to imagine what adventures lie beyond. The time has come to go and see.
The route links the Du Toitskloof Pass to the Franschhoek Pass across the spine of the stunning Wemmershoek Mountains. It is mostly done over three days. However, this is a tough schedule even without visiting all the peaks. The route visits Haelhoeksneeukop (1533m), the Wemmershoek Tafelberg (1748m), and Wemmershoek Peak East (1766m). My plan was to take four days, allowing time to visit the Winterberg Amphitheatre, including Winterberg West (1615m) and Winterberg East (1613m), the challenging Olifantshoek Peak (1742m) and Wemmershoek Peak West (1793m), which is the highest point in the Wemmershoek Mountains.
As luck would have it, the hike had to be postponed for a week, due to inclement weather. The new dates appeared to have a great weather forecast. But as luck would have it again, a forecast for heavy weather pops up in the near term forecast for our last day. We therefore opt to reduce the hike to three days. This requires doing the first half of day 2 on day 1, as well has removing the Winterberg Amphitheatre from the programme.
Day 1
We park our cars in Franschhoek, and board a shuttle to the Miaspoort Trailhead on the Du Toitskloof Pass. Our adventure is underway. Miaspoort is a brutal start, but the brutality is surpassed by the beauty of the place. Onwards and upwards to Haelhoeksneeukop. Views, views, views, a theme for the days to come.
From here the routes drops to the saddle with the Winterberg, far up above the Agtertafelberg Hut. This is where our first camp would have been, but today it’s a late lunch stop only. It’s next to a lovely stream with some great pools, and Benita is already in for her first swim. In the afternoon we tackle the Winterberg, but it feels like it’s tackling us. We arrive at our camp at the Winterberg Lakes, 16km, 1570m of ascent, and 9 hours later. Unsurprisingly everyone can use an early night, but what a beautiful night it is. Not too cold, and no dew, great for sleeping out.
Day 2
We greet the sunrise on a stunning morning, on top of Winterberg East. And then head back to camp for breakfast. The next port of call is to find the saddle joining the Winterberg to Wemmershoek Tafelberg. The navigation is some of the most challenging of the whole traverse, but we muddle our way through, and hit the right gully to the saddle, after recceing one alternate ledge. Tafelberg looks small from far away, but it’s really very big. We reach the summit, and have our morning tea stop with a sense of achievement.
From here we have to find another saddle which takes as to the foot Olifantshoek Peak. We down packs, and launch an assault on the formidable peak, which is the most challenging of all on the traverse. We find our way up an exposed gully which is at least a B+ grade scramble. On top we find the summit in an unruly jumble of boulders. It’s great fun, but slightly nerve-wracking to maintain one’s balance whilst trying to take photos.
Now we have to find our camp, which is located on a high plateau at an altitude of 1700m, behind Wemmershoek Peak West. We set up camp, and top off the day with a visit to the peak, which is thankfully much easier to reach than Olifantshoek Peak. Having reached the top of the traverse, we settle down for another beautiful, surprisingly mild night in mountains.
Day 3
We head up to Wemmershoek Peak East for morning tea, on a third day of unbelievably pleasant weather. We then tackle the notorious succession of saddles towards Mont Rochelle Nature Reserve, and down to Franschhoek for celebratory beers and a well-earned lunch. It’s been a special few days in a very special place.
In the end, we visited all the peaks on the original list, except for Winterberg West, but it has exacted a toll. It will be days before my legs feel normal again. My heart however is flying high with contentment.
